Maynard’s is like the treasured $25 bottle of wine you occasionally find that drinks like a $65-plus Grand Cru. Based on the restaurant’s food quality, cocktail offerings, service and setting, its prices are punching above its weight.
An adventurous project, Maynard’s opened as “Kitsap’s Culinary Destination” in a very large, purpose-built space in 2019, only to immediately face the challenges of the pandemic. The establishment has persevered and survived to now offer an expansive menu of modern American food with excellent provenance at quite competitive pricing. It does an excellent job presenting customers with affordable options in addition to higher-end items that are also very well priced. The space is sleek, modern and spacious, with menus serving lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch, including a creative cocktail list.
Let’s start with you and how you got here.
That’s always a long story, but I’ll make it as short as possible. My father and mother were both in the restaurant industry. My father was an executive chef for more than 35 years at large Seattle restaurants from when I was a baby. He was a chef for 35 years when he got his first big chef job at the Flame restaurant at the north end of Lake Washington. It was a big restaurant, and he was the executive chef and ran that place for years. Before that, he was at the Sheraton in Renton when it was the “it” hotel and had an airplane on the top of the building. There was a penthouse restaurant, the place to be. I grew up in that environment. I remember running around at the Flame. One of my parents would take me to work most of the time and I would run around causing trouble. I started like any kid would, curious, asking if I could help.
When did you know that you were going to be a chef?
No one ever asked me, I just said to myself, “I want to be a chef” and that’s what I am. My dad didn’t push me toward that; he just always supported me. So, at 16, I went to my first culinary school. There was a special Washington state program, a two-year program in Astoria, Oregon, as a part of Job Corps. I did very well and graduated in 11 months. Later, I was a line cook at a pretty busy restaurant in Gig Harbor called the Harbor Inn. I was 20 at the time and after a bit, the head chef said to me, “You’re never going to be a chef; get off my line!” Challenge accepted; the next day I applied at Western Culinary Institute, where I graduated with a 4.0 and highest honors.
What would you say were the best lessons there?
That I needed to be an adult and I needed to be responsible. I had a good counselor; she told me to shut up and sit down. At that age, it takes time to change your behavior, to be accountable and to understand that what I’m doing now is going to impact my life in the future. While at school, I was working at a high-end restaurant in Portland. I would go to school from 6 a.m. until 3:30 p.m. and then race to get to work at 4 p.m. I would close the restaurant at 2 a.m. and then get up at 4:35 and go back to school at 6 a.m. I finally told the restaurateur that I know I’m the new guy, but I can only run so hard. So, I went back to Harbor Inn, where I started as the sous chef and within three months, I was the executive chef. I had two cooks quit within two days after I took the job and then I had to go to the chef I replaced and say, “Can I ask for a favor? I need you to work for another three weeks. I just had two cooks quit; I need you.” He said, “Whatever you need, chef!” He did it out of respect for me because he knew it wasn’t my intention to take this job, and we’re still friends to this day. So that’s how I got my start as an executive chef.
If your child comes to you and says, ‘I want to be a chef,’ what’s your response?
I have one daughter, Madeline; she just turned 8. The other day I teased her and said, “Do you want to run the restaurant? I’ll just change it from Maynard’s to Madeline’s!” “Daddy, stop, I don’t want to be that chef!” I don’t put her in the kitchen like my dad did and no, I’d rather her not. I’d rather her go a different route unless she’s dead set on it. It’s tough work.
How would you define Maynard’s style?
That’s complicated. I would say “new American,” higher-end Kitsap, but for everybody. If you want to go to a nice place with kids, we try to keep the kids happy. There’s a lot of people in Kitsap who want great food; they don’t want the food that they go to Napa Valley or Los Angeles for. We try to find that balance because if we go too far, then we can alienate some guests.
What would you like to put on the menu, but you know it just wouldn’t sell?
It’s kind of the fun thing like I do sometimes to test a little bit — I’ll try something different. We’ve done an A5 (premium) wagyu and it’s sold OK, but I don’t want to become that [high-end] perception either because it’s important to me to stick to my roots. I’ve been raised here in Kitsap and Mason County. We live here in Silverdale now and I want to stay loyal; that is important to me.
You call yourself ‘Kitsap’s Culinary Destination.’ What is your definition of a ‘culinary destination’?
A lot of people ask me that. I am a certified culinary administrator, a certified culinary educator and a world certified executive chef as a part of the American Culinary Federation (ACF). I live and breathe it; I was a chef instructor for 10 years. I’m very proud to say that we have the best team in our kitchen. We’re the only facility in Western Washington where you can earn certification in the ACF. Just a week ago, we did our last “practical exam,” which is a part of multiple exams. The ACF is the largest chef culinary organization in the United States and is a part of the World Association of Chefs Society. We have the only ACF apprentice in Kitsap County here in our kitchen. Our sous chef is a certified sous chef, and he has another month and a half to finish his culinary apprenticeship. I feel that it’s a real validation for a chef to get accreditation with the ACF. It is a respected accomplishment. We also offer monthly cooking classes for those not looking for professional courses.
What would you say to your customers about the crazy increases in restaurant food prices?
Go to McDonald’s and see how much you pay for a double quarter pounder meal. We have a sandwich special; my chefs make a different sandwich and different soup every day and it’s $9.99! Tell me what you’re going to get at Burger King for $9.99. We also have a three-course meal that we just started. The early bird menu is served from 2 to 5:30, and for only $23.99 you get a three-course meal.
Do you watch any cooking shows?
I don’t; I just do not have the time. My daughter loves to watch the baking shows, but I live and breathe this every day. I’ll be relaxing for a few minutes or so and she says, “Let’s watch a baking show!” I’m like, “I’ve watched enough baking this week.”
When you’re at home, who’s cooking?
I will cook on my days off, but my wife cooks on the days I work because on a busy week, I work 70 to 80 hours. It’s life as a chef.
Do you have a favorite seasonal Northwest item?
Oh yes, lots of them. Oysters for one. Fresh Dungeness crab, sockeye or coho salmon. There’s so many things, I can go on and on. I love foraging for mushrooms.
What’s your comfort food?
Oh gosh, a good cheeseburger, right? The best piece of pizza slice and a beer — you know, it’s nothing fancy.
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