For Brandon Hesher, opening and owning a restaurant is his blood. Growing up, his father and grandmother were both chefs, and their family owned five restaurants. At just 7 years old, he started working in the kitchen with his dad making breakfast together. Hesher recalls many mornings waking up at 4 a.m. when he was 11 years old. His dad let him drive his old, supped-up Datsun 280Z, a popular sports car in the mid to late ’70s, in exchange for working before school.
“For me, it’s just fun to take the tools from growing up that I learned from my family,” he said. “My dad and grandma are not around anymore, and it kind of makes me feel tied to them still in a way.”
Now, Hesher is part owner of The Bistro and manages the restaurant with the help of his partner, Melissa Fulton, who handles the front-of-house operations. The Bistro is a homey and affordable restaurant located in the charming town of Allyn. Part of the Lakeland Village community, it’s a popular spot for neighborhood locals and those who frequent the community’s golf course. During their first few years of operation, about 80% of the customers were locals from the community. Now, thanks to their support and raving reviews, most of the visitors are new faces eager to try their food.
The restaurant offers a delicious array of classic American and Italian-inspired meals prepared with the flair of a chef. Barnwood-style walls and wood floors add to the dining room’s cozy charm and ambiance. The Bistro also features a full bar and a decadent selection of cocktails, beers and wine.
There had been a series of failed restaurants in the spot that is now The Bistro. Jason Ilarraza has been the Allyn Community Association president since 2019, and since then he has witnessed many restaurants come and go from the same location. For him, it’s not surprising that The Bistro stands the test of time and continues to grow in popularity.
According to Ilarraza, The Bistro offers a welcoming atmosphere and contains the core elements of a successful restaurant: quality food, quality service and engagement with the customers and community. He said one key ingredient The Bistro possesses that the previous places lacked is a culinary-trained chef at the helm. Another factor helping Hesher and Fulton stay successful is the connections they make with their customers and community.
The community association puts on events that depend on support from local businesses, so Ilarraza often seeks ways to collaborate with them. He said Hesher and Fulton have always been willing to partner with the Allyn Community Association to help fundraise. To be able to offer free admission to one of the organization’s larger events, Allyn Days, businesses contribute by donating resources. Taylor Shellfish Farms donates clams every year, and Hesher helps by making his grandmother’s “famous” clam chowder.
“What really sticks out with [Hesher and Fulton] is how they connect with people,” Ilarraza explained. “How they’re consistent, how they actually participate in community events and how they participate in bringing people together.”
Prior to opening the restaurant, Hesher had been cooking and managing catering operations for a business in Union. He quit that job five years ago in hopes of finding a better opportunity in the restaurant industry, and it just happened to be on the same day he discovered what is now The Bistro. Friends and owners of a restaurant Hesher frequented served him a margarita and told him he could take over a lease in Lakeland Village to start his own endeavor.
Since then, The Bistro has become a staple in the community and welcomes a growing number of new faces through the door. You’ll find Hesher and Fulton bartending and serving guests together on Tuesdays and Wednesdays, but on the busier weekends, Hesher helps prepare and cook food in the kitchen.
When asked about the top factor for choosing a restaurant, 72% of diners ranked high-quality food as No. 1, according to a 2019 report from Toast, a restaurant software company. Fortunately for The Bistro, its menu is filled with mouthwatering food that has been handcrafted with love throughout generations. Hesher created the entire menu using original recipes. What’s even more special is that many of the recipes are borrowed from his grandmother and his time working at his family’s restaurants.
“When I was a kid, it was one of my jobs to make biscuits and clam chowder with my grandma,” he said. “She came up with the recipe in the ’80s, so it’s an old recipe, but it stands strong.”
The menu is based on classic recipes made with quality ingredients, Hesher said. He wants everyone to feel welcome and enjoy a comforting meal, one that elevates a typical diner experience. The goal is to serve food that is neither too fancy nor too generic.
“We don’t want it to be a fine dining restaurant, and we don’t want it to be a greasy spoon either,” he explained.
Not only do the dishes look and taste delicious, The Bistro sources fresh ingredients and purchases them from local suppliers when available. Cocktails are crafted with freshly squeezed lemon and lime juice. The shellfish is locally harvested at a nearby beach and delivered by Tom Farmer Oyster Co., a fellow Allyn-based business, just 10 minutes after leaving the nearby beach. All of the beef is antibiotic-free, sourced from Western Washington, and always fresh, never frozen.
The burgers, one of Hesher’s favorite menu items, feature artisan baked buns. There are just two burgers on the menu, but he said it’s all you need for a tasty burger.
“I think if something is made right, you don’t need to mess with it,” Hesher explained.
The Bistro Pub Burger features a quarter-pound Angus patty, topped with cheddar, lettuce, tomato, thin-sliced red onion and mayo, all the classics piled between a buttery brioche bun. For those who arrive hungry, The Bistro Burger is a beefed-up version, made with a half-pound Angus patty and all the same fixings.
A fan favorite is the Gorgonzola steak bites, half-ounce Angus pieces smothered in a smoked Gorgonzola cream sauce, served with sautéed red onions and a balsamic reduction. There’s also a version you can order with fries under the saucy goodness. Hesher’s friend created that variation one night when he had a moment of genius and requested fries with the dish.
“He ordered that, and then in that same night I think 13 other people in the bar ordered the steak bites over a pile of french fries,” Hesher said.
For those seeking affordable cocktails with the vibe of an upscale bar, The Bistro doesn’t disappoint. Its list of $10 signature cocktails features classic drinks with a twist. The mango habanero bloody mary is crafted with a housemade mix and mango habanero vodka. If you enjoy the refreshing balance of sweet and sour flavors, the prickly pear cosmo is a spinoff from the classic but made with Western Son prickly pear vodka.
If you’re thinking The Bistro might make the perfect place to host an event or celebration, you’re in luck because it caters for weddings, holiday parties, fundraisers and other private events. If you want to host an event onsite, a banquet room is available upstairs.
The Bistro throws a Sunday Brunch each week and offers daily specials. Stop by on the weekends for a taste of Hesher’s cooking. Even when it’s busy, he’s always happy to welcome a new face through the door.
“The most fulfilling thing to me is when you have your regulars and people who aren’t regulars, and even if it’s slammed, you see everybody out here just happy, enjoying themselves and eating,” Hesher said. “That gives me a sense of fulfillment.”
Comments